A Christmas treat – Spiced Cinnamon Shortbread

Tags

baking, Cape Town, Chefs & Cooks, Christmas Biscuits, Christmas Gifts, Clifton Kitchen - Cooking thorugh the seasons, food blog, Food Writing, recipe, shortbread, Spices

The flavour and fragrance of this shortbread is just so ‘Christmassy’ and I love to have tins of it in the pantry; some pieces beautifully packed for little home-made gifts and some for sharing with friends who pop in over the festive season. What’s more it is very easy to make. 

Serves 8

Ingredients

2 cups cake flour

¼ cup caster sugar

2 tbsp. corn flour

¼ tsp. cinnamon powder

A pinch of Allspice powder

Pinch of salt

250g unsalted butter, slightly softened

Extra caster sugar for sprinkling once baked

Preheat the oven to 160°C.

Method

Place all the ingredients in a food processor and process until the ingredients are combined and just coming together. It is important to not over-process. If you don’t have a food processor, work the mixture lightly with your hands until combined.

Press the mixture as evenly as possible into a 20cm round pie dish and smooth the top. Using a fork, prick the dough evenly all over.

Place the shortbread in a preheated oven for about 35-40 minutes or until it turns a light golden brown.

Remove from the oven and slice into serving portions then sprinkle with some caster sugar while still hot. Leave to cool before serving.

spice options

ground star anise; ground dried ginger; ground cardamom, ground cloves

It’s the perfect morning to write – A Trio of Recipes

Tags

capers, Carrots, chilli, dressings, eggs, Fries, Frits, Micro greens, pears, puff pastry, Rocket leaf, Salads, smoked salmon, Soy sauce, spinach, Tart, walnut oil

I’m sitting in my kitchen warm and toasty looking out on the garden and the Atlantic Ocean beyond while contemplating the trees and bushes with the last of their autumn colours dropping gracefully to the ground; the leaves seem to have stayed around longer than usual which adds to the rich beauty of the morning as the air seems to dance with wisps of fog in the most magical way.

It’s the perfect morning to write, sitting here sipping on a soothing cup of coffee while my mind flits through the many recipes enjoyed by people past, and who recently stayed at Clifton House, and of their usual departing request to please send the recipe.

Most recently requested recipes are; Poached Egg on a bed of micro greens served with Carrot frits, Chilli spiced Autumn Pear salad, Smoked salmon & Spinach tart.

Poached Egg & Micro greens served with a side order of Carrot Frits

Serves 2

For the eggs

2 large organic eggs

20 g micro leaf rocket

1 tsp. good quality aged balsamic vinegar

1 desert spoon walnut oil

For the carrot frits

500 g carrots cut into fries approximately 1cm thick

1 tbsp. cornflour

A few grindings black pepper

1 tbsp. olive oil

Salt to taste

Heat the oven to 200c

Method

Place the cornflour and black pepper in a plastic bag, add the carrot frits and toss to cover evenly. Remove carrots from bag, place on a baking sheet and gently toss through with olive oil. Spread out in a single layer and bake in the oven for 30-40 minutes until done. To prevent carrots from sticking it is best to turn them halfway through the cooking process. When the carrot frits are cooked, sprinkle with salt.

When the carrot frits are ready, place some micro greens on each plate. Mix together the balsamic vinegar and walnut oil, drizzle over the micro greens and set aside.

Place a small pan on the stove with sufficient water to almost cover the eggs; sprinkle in a little salt, add the eggs and poach gently until cooked to your liking.

Place a poached egg gently on top of the micro greens, season with a few salt flakes and some ground black pepper. Serve with the carrot frits on the side. The frits are delicious to dunk into the egg.

Chilli Spiced Pear Salad

This is nice to serve as a starter or to enjoy as a light lunch.

Serves 4

Ingredients

1 large chilli deseeded and finely chopped

3 tbsp. Groundnut or olive oil

2 tsps. Soy sauce

1 tsp. Castor sugar

1 tsp. white wine vinegar

3 firm but sweet pears cut into medium thin slices

Mixture of salad greens

Salt flakes and ground black pepper

Method

Add the chopped chillies to the oil in a bowl. In a small pan, warm the soy sauce, sugar and vinegar together. Once the sugar has dissolved, whisk it into the olive and chilli mixture. Set aside.

Place some salad greens on each plate, top with some of the sliced pear and drizzle over the dressing, finish with a sprinkle of salt flakes and ground black pepper. Serve.

Smoked Salmon & Spinach tart

Serves 4-6

Equipment

You will need a 25cm loose bottom tart tin, about 4cm deep.

Ingredients

Ready-made puff pastry

Olive oil

1 pack of baby spinach

1 onion finely diced

1 pack of smoked salmon

2 tbsp. capers

1 round of feta

5-6 eggs (large)

120 ml milk

A little salt and a good grinding of black pepper

Method

Heat the oven to 180C

Roll out the ready-made puff pastry and line the tart tin – set aside.

Wash the spinach. Heat a pan and add some oil to the pan followed by the spinach. Cook until the spinach is wilted. Drain and press the spinach to remove all the excess water. Tear into bits and leave to cool

In the same pan drizzle a little more oil and add the onion; Sauté until soft and translucent. Set aside to cool.

Scatter the spinach over the base of the pastry, followed by the onions and then the salmon, torn into strips, then the capers and the feta.

In a bowl mix together the eggs and milk; season with salt and pepper, keep in mind the saltiness of the salmon, feta and capers.

Pour the egg mixture over the ingredients in the tart tin.

Place the tart tin on a tray and set on the middle rack of the oven and bake for about 45 minutes.

Serve with a salad.

My Love Affair With the Boot

Tags

charterhouse of san giacomo, CliftonKitchen, Cooking Through The Seasons, Cooks, emperor tiberius, faraglioni, food and drink, grotta azzurra, hotel il san pietro di positano, Kate Abbott, limoncello, marina grande, marina grande capri, marsala prawns, mont solaro, naples, piazzetta, pompei, punta tragara hotel, recipes, ristorante faraglioni, sorrento, torta caprese, travel Writing, via camerelle, via krupp

Article first printed in ShowCook – http://www.showcook.com/2012/travel-culture/my-love-affair-with-the-boot-with-kate-abbott/

Kate Abbott fell in love with the Amalfi coast and Capri, and no wonder as this area is one of the most heavenly places in the world.

It all began with falling in love, not the love that leads to general baying at the moon but rather the deep appreciation and joy of magnificent landscape and vistas, beautiful Villas, architecture, history, places to stay and cuisine to enjoy. It is the boot, Italy, and to be more specific, this time it is the escape to the Amalfi coast.

After spending two days in Rome it was time to head south. Our destination is Sorrento where we will leave our car and board a ferry for Capri.

Capri: 

a paradise of idleness surrounded by the bluest of seas; this dramatically beautiful, flower-covered Island has been enchanting visitors for centuries, as it has me.

On arriving at the Marina Grande Capri we are met by staff from the hotel Punta Tragara, our home for the next few days. Our luggage is commandeered as we are guided on to the funicular which takes us up to the top of the imposingly steep cliff to the main piazzetta where once again members of the hotel staff wait to guide us along meandering pathways past exquisite boutiques, restaurants, gardens with cascading bougainvillea, and past 19th century villas, to our hotel.

The Hotel Punta Tragara, ingeniously built on the craggy cliffs is perfectly placed on one of the islands most spectacular locations where you have full view of the hypnotic trio, the white marble Faraglioni; three rocky spires which soar an imposing 92 metres above the water where they seem to proudly anchor the south east coast. At sunset the stones blaze like gold with the flashing of the sun on the sea. These rocks are one of Capri’s top landmarks.

Sightseeing: 

There is so much to see on this little Island, from the colourful port of Marina Grande to the glamorous Piazzetta where the world’s beautiful people hang out; from the ruins of Emperor Tiberius’ villas to the Charterhouse of San Giacomo and the spectacular Via Krupp. You can take the chair lift to the top of Monte Solaro. You can walk along paths leading to incredible rock formations such as the Natural Arch and the Faraglioni. You can marvel at the glimmering blue of the Grotta Azzurra and you can fall in love with Capri just like I did and hundreds and thousands of visitors who came before. Other things to do from Capri: Plan day trips to Naples, Pompeii, Sorrento.

Restaurants: 

An icon of island hospitality, Capri’s Ristorante Faraglioni is famous throughout the world for its excellent traditional cuisine, interesting location, and its celebrity clientele. Restaurant Faraglioni’s tables are set along both sides of the final stretch of Via Camerelle, the pedestrian road renowned for its elegant boutiques and designer fashion stores.

Faraglioni’s cuisine is proudly traditional. The menus feature the island’s best loved dishes as well as a selection of classic Italian and international specialties. All-time favourites include spaghetti with crab and sea urchin sauce, and the chef’s legendary lemon risotto.

And then there is Da Luigi; few restaurants can boast a location as stunning as that occupied by Capri’s Da Luigi ai Faraglioni. This historic eatery, dating back to 1936, sits on the water’s edge, almost directly beneath the island’s Faraglioni rocks. Here, in the shadow of the legendary landmark, holidaymakers mingle with members of the international jet set, who regularly come to savour the restaurant’s delicious and vast selection of fish and seafood dishes, as well as traditional island specialties. The cuisine together with the unbeatable location, make Da Luigi ai Faraglioni a sought after venue. It is also a much loved bathing area where visitors come to swim and laze in the sun from dawn to dusk.

Shopping In Capri

The Via Camerelle boasts an amazingly high concentration of designer shops and here you come across all the big names from the world of fashion. If however you would rather buy something which has been made on the island and which you are unlikely to come across anywhere else, visit the little artisan shops and showrooms.

You may not want to leave the island without these three loved souvenirs: A pair of hand-stitched Capri sandals; Capri is famous for its handmade sandals, to acquire a pair all you have to do is walk into a sandal shop where the cobbler will measure your feet while you choose the type of straps you want. Less than an hour later your sandals will be ready.

Another typical souvenir from Capri is artisan made perfume. The tradition of perfume making dates back to the 15th century when the monks residing in the Charterhouse of San Giacomo started producing exquisite scents using the island’s wonderful herbs and flowers, a bottle of artisan-made perfume is a great gift. And then there is the famous limoncello made from the fabulously fragrant lemons, which locals like to sip as a digestive.

From Capri to Positano

After Capri our destination is Hotel Il San Pietro di Positano, a luxury hotel just 2km from the centre of Positano.

Few hotels can boast a position as stunning as the one occupied by Hotel Il San Pietro, with its magnificent views where the lapis lazuli sea seemingly melts into perpetual azure sky in ineffable vistas. The picturesque 5 star hotel, the brain child of the late Carlo Cinque, is ingeniously carved out of the cliffs and hovers a daunting 100 metres above the sparkling bay.

The terraced gardens of roses, bougainvillea, fuchsia and exotic orchids; perfume the air inside and outside the hotel. The décor is simple, elegant, and the refined details such as magnificent pieces of furniture, carpets, and paintings show the San Pietro’s commitment to luxury. The various terraces offer vistas of both the surrounding sea and the imposing Lattari Mountains. One terrace is home to the semi-circular swimming pool.

The guest rooms and suites are impressive and each has its own beautiful, private terrace with dazzling views of the sea below. The classic, elegant design of the individually styled rooms and suites provide a plush respite, while modern conveniences such as satellite television and Jacuzzi tubs maximize the comfort factor. Once inside our suite it was difficult to leave the opulent comfort, the magical vista, and the soft setting sun across the bay of Positano. For me it is truly a little slice of heaven.

Dining:

Hotel Il San Pietro’s panoramic Michelin Star restaurant is touted as one of Italy’s finest eateries. The gourmet restaurant serves classic Italian cuisine, prepared with the freshest seasonal ingredients along with the fabulous extra virgin olive oil produced from the fruit grown in Il San Pietro’s own olive groves. It certainly lives up to all that and more.

Guests have the opportunity to use any of the hotel’s excellent leisure facilities, including the large swimming pool, tennis courts, and Fitness Centre. The hotel’s wellness facility offers a superb selection of face and body treatments, performed by highly trained therapists.

An elevator carved into the steep cliff-side escorts guests at dizzyingly speed to the private beach below the hotel, located in a natural cove and surrounded by crystal clear water. Lounge beds and umbrellas create a comfortable environment while you sip a beverage from the seaside bar or laze in the sun.

Guests can explore the coastline with a complimentary boat excursion in the morning; alternatively, a private boat charter is available through the hotel, taking you anywhere along the coast and Gulf of Naples in complete privacy.

There are a variety of beautiful hotels, villas and apartments in Positano; we chose the Hotel IL San Pietro as our base for the week, because of the comparative quietness of its position and its perfect location from which to explore Positano and other beautiful and historical places along the coast of Amalfi.

The picturesque town of Positano, its enchanting position, and delightful houses, villas and gardens which cascade dramatically down the mountainside, represent the epitome of Mediterranean charm.

The Amalfi drive snakes its way along the Amalfi coast, and around each and every bend in the road splendid views of the small towns, secluded bays, and deep gorges, pop into view. The road winds its way through dramatically beautiful landscape of lush green Mediterranean flora and striking rock formations, leading to towns of worldwide fame such as Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, and Salerno, but also to lesser known, yet just as magical, places like Praiano, Atrani and Furore and further on it goes to Maiori, Minori, Vietri sul Mare, and Paestum, all of which gaze out across the Gulf of Salerno.

 

Recommended places to visit and things to do:

Positano: Is not only an International tourist destination but also an important centre for fashion design. One of the town’s major attractions is its vast array of boutiques lining the narrow lanes and alleyways with their displays of colourful garments, typical of the town. Visit the prehistoric caves, the Li Galli islands, the Roman Villas and underwater archaeological remains. During the summer season visitors can attend events such as the Festivals held at Montepertuso and Positano, and the International Art of Dance Awards.

Amalfi: The town of Amalfi has its own charm; piazzas, shops, pastel houses, a picturesque harbour and the dizzying precipices that drop straight into the sea. If you have a head for heights pace along the quarter-mile-long promenade, the village of Amalfi unfolding far beneath you in a splendid panorama from where you soak in the sublime beauty of the place and surround. Visit Hotel Cappuccino’s for lunch and for food lovers don’t forget to pay a visit to the Hotel Luna Convento’s cooking school. Buy some Amalfi writing paper.

Ravello: Quiet, tranquil and stunningly beautiful. Here you will find Villa Rufolo, a magnificent estate with terraced medieval gardens where voluptuous wisterias, scarlet sage, cyclamen and bougainvillea pay homage to all who have gone before. The terrace overlooks the entire bay of Salerno, past the Minori valley and Capo d’Orso and on to the Cilento Mountains.

Most people visit Ravello to view the magnificent Villas and gardens. Stroll down Villa Cimbrone’s ‘Allee of Immensity’, past pergolas and rampageous roses, to the Belvedere of Infinity, a magnificent stone balcony that overlooks the Gulf of Salerno and the Universe.

There is so much more I would like to see, but sadly it is time to leave. I am in love with the boot, the amazing Costa Di Amalfi, and the wonderful cuisine.

What to wear: Locals and visitors alike are snappy dresses. Pack a few classical pieces that you can dress up or down with well-chosen accessories for that effortlessly chic look.

Food:

Seafood so beautiful and fresh tends to features prominently on the menus. But no matter what you choose, the focus is on fresh, local, organic, minimal fuss and maximum flavour.

Here are a few recipes that will hopefully transport your taste buds on an inspiring gastronomic journey.

Amalfi Sauce – Rocket, Walnut & Pinenut Pesto

A lovely pesto sauce which is enjoyed all over Italy; serve with pasta, on Panini, bruschetta, or use it to spice up a risotto.

Ingredients

175g rocket, coarsely chopped
25 g walnuts, shelled
40 g pine nuts, lightly toasted
1 – 2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
25 g butter, softened
75 ml extra virgin olive oil
55 g parmesan freshly grated
55 g pecorino romano, freshly grated
sea salt and ground pepper to taste

Method

Place the rocket, walnuts, pine nuts and garlic in a food processor, blend until finely chopped. Add the butter and oil and process for a few more seconds until creamy. Place the mixture in a bowl; add the cheeses and seasoning and mix to incorporate. Place in a clean jar and refrigerate.

Use to flavour pasta and risotto, enjoy on a bruschetta, panini or pizza, drizzle over some steak, a hot potato, or use blended in a salad dressing.

This mixture will keep in the fridge for about a week; if it lasts that long!

Marsala Prawns

Seafood, lovely and fresh, is abundant along the Amalfi coast and in this recipe the delicate flavour of prawns is gently enhanced with a dash of Dry Marsala.

serves 4

Ingredients

4 – 5 tbsp. olive oil

2 – 3 cloves garlic

1 small dried chilli, crushed

1 kg prawns, shelled but leaving the tails on

60 – 100 ml Dry Marsala wine

1 tbsp. flat leaf parsley finely chopped

Method

Place a pan over medium heat, add olive oil, garlic and chilli and heat gently for a few minutes until fragrant, about 4 minutes. Add prawns and sauté over medium heat until they begin to change colour, about 5 minutes, depending on size. Turn up the heat, season with sea salt and add Marsala wine, cook for a few more minutes, allowing the wine to evaporate, and then mix in the parsley.

Serve with a salad and some nice fresh bread.

Torta Caprese

Torta Caprese is a lovely dense blend of almonds and chocolate; this recipe dates back to the 1930’s and is a popular treat on Capri.

Ingredients

250 g sugar

250 g butter

5 eggs

300 g almonds, chopped

125 g good quality dark chocolate, chopped

1 tsp. vanilla extract

Dusting of icing sugar

Method

Preheat the oven to 180ºC. Place the sugar and butter in a bowl and mix together until creamy. Add eggs one at a time, incorporating well after each addition until all are absorbed in the mixture. Then add chopped almonds, chopped chocolate and vanilla.

Butter and flour a tart pan or cake tin, diameter about 25 cm. Add the mixture to the pan. Place the pan in a pre-heated oven and bake for 40 minutes. Take it out of the oven, leave to cool. Dust with icing sugar.

 

Diagram and useful links

 

http://www.positano.com/
http://www.positano.com/en/how-to-get-here
http://www.positano.com/en/amalfi-coast-hotels
http://www.capritourism.com/en/home
http://www.amalfitouristoffice.it/home.asp

© KATE ABBOTT 2012
https://cliftonkitchen.wordpress.com

Unctuous & Delicious Autumnal Tart

Tags

Balsamic Vinegar, Books, Butternut, Cape Town, Clifton Kitchen, Cook Books, Cooking Through The Seasons, Cooks, Food Writing, Foodblogs, Kate Abbott, Lifestyle, Pastry, Peppery greens, Pgotography, recipes, Rocket, Savoury Tart, Tart, Travel, travel Writing, Vegetarian, Watercress

Roasted Butternut Tart Served With Salad

Its cold, rain clouds are mustering over the sea, pregnant with anticipation of what’s to come. The  mixture of slate coloured hues across the expanse of sea make me feel hungry,  I need something bright and unctuous to feed my guests. In the larder I have a good stock of butternut and in the fridge some peppery greens, perfect ingredients for a delicious flaky autumnal tart.

INGREDIENTS

Serves 6 – 8

· 1 quantity short crust pastry or pre-prepared puff pastry (recipe below)

· 5oo g roasted butternut chunks

· 20 fresh sage leaves

· 50 ml olive oil

· Salt and freshly ground pepper

· 100 g pecorino or mature cheddar

· 3 eggs

· 200 ml fresh cream

· Watercress or Rocket leaves

· Balsamic vinegar dressing

PREPARATION

Make the short crust pastry and refrigerate

Preheat the oven to 230C.

Peel and deseed the butternut and cut into chunks. Place into a roasting pan, scatter over 10 of the sage leaves torn into pieces, drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast for about 40 minutes, until nicely coloured and cooked through.

Reduce the oven temperature to 180C

Roll out the pastry and line a 23cm loose bottom baking tin. Blind bake at 180C, for 10-15 minutes.

Sprinkle the grated cheese over the base of the bottom of the pastry, top with the roasted butternut chunks. Scatter over the remainder of sage leaves.

Beat the egg and cream together, season with salt and pepper and pour over the tart filling. Bake at 180C for about 35 minutes. The tart should feel firm in the middle when gently touched.

Serve with a side salad of either watercress or rocket leaves dressed with some balsamic vinegar and olive oil.

Best served at room temperature

Short Crust Pastry

INGREDIENTS

· 225g plain flour

· 110g butter, cut into cubes

· 1 whole egg

· 1 pinch of salt

· 3 tbsp. of iced water

PREPARATION

Place the flour and butter (sprinkled around the flour) in a food processor.
Place the lid on top and briefly blitz the mixture using the pulse button. Be careful not to over mix it.
Add the egg, salt and iced water. Briefly pulse the mixture again, the moment it starts to become crumbly, stop.
Gather it into your hands and gently pat it together. Do not knead it. Wrap it in cling film and put into the fridge.

An Elegant and Easy Tart or Dessert

Tags

Almond, Apricot, baking, Book, Clifton Kitchen, Cook Books, Dartois, Entertainment, food, Food Blogs, Jam, Kate Abbott, Life, Lifestyle, News, Photography, Photos, recipes, Travel, travel Writing, Writing

Apricot and Almond Jam Dartois

This easy recipe is named after a well-known French vaudeville artist François-Victor-Armand Dartois de Bourneville who lived in the 1700s. It is made from 2 layers of puff pastry which have either a sweet or savoury filling. This jam and apricot Dartois is quick to make and ideal for unexpected guests.

Serves 6-8

Ingredients

1 packet frozen puff pastry – defrosted

400g apricot jam

200g sliced almonds

Icing sugar

250 ml double Cream

Half a lemon

Method

Defrost the pastry

Preheat the oven to 200C degrees

Mix the sliced almonds into the jam. Open the pastry and gently roll on a floured surface to provide two equal portions of either round or rectangle shape pastry. Place one portion of pastry on a non-stick baking tray and spread the surface with the jam and almond mixture leaving a thumb’s width border all round.

Lightly wet the pastry border and place the other rectangle of pastry over the jam and almond mixture, seal the 2 portions of pastry carefully together.

Bake for 15-20 minutes.

Remove Dartois from oven and dust lightly with icing sugar put back in oven and cook a further 5 minutes until sugar has lightly caramelised. Serve with lemon cream.

Lemon cream

Squeeze the juice from half a lemon. Add the juice slowly to the cream and beat in well. Put in a serving bowl and place in fridge to chill until ready to serve.

Long Distance Tea for Two

Tags

baking, Blog, Books, Cape Town, Clifton Kitchen, Devonshire Honey Cake, Entertainment, food, Hi tea, honey, Lifestyle, Photography, Photos, recipes, tea, Travel, travel Writing, Writing

My long distance correspondent Harold Boardman sent me this delicious recipe for an easy to make cake. It is wonderfully moist, fragrant with honey and just perfect for a chilly afternoon tea, or if you prefer, serve it warm with some custard and you have a lovely dessert.

The cakes flavour can be mild or strong depending on the type of honey you use for the final glaze.

Hi Kate,

I may have mentioned I don’t do baking but this recipe is so simple I had a go earlier with average results!! In the hands of an expert like your good self it will probably taste excellent – hope you try it and mention it in your blog !!

Harold.

Thank you Harold, I love the cake and I am enjoying it with my tea.

Devonshire Honey Cake

Ingredients

250g clear honey, plus about 2 tbsp. extra to glaze

225g unsalted butter

100g dark muscovado sugar

3 large eggs beaten

300g self-raising flour

Method

Preheat the oven to 160C/gas 3/or fan oven fan 140C.

Butter and line a 20cm round loose bottomed cake tin.

Cut the butter into pieces and drop into a medium pan with the honey and sugar. Melt slowly over a low heat. When the mixture looks quite liquid, increase the heat under the pan and boil for about one minute. Leave to cool for 15-20 minutes, to prevent the eggs cooking when they are mixed in.

Beat the eggs into the melted honey mixture using a wooden spoon. Sift the flour into a large bowl and pour in the egg and honey mixture, beating until you have a smooth, quite runny batter.

Pour the mixture into the tin and bake for 50 minutes-1 hour until the cake is well-risen, golden brown and springs back when pressed. A skewer pushed into the centre of the cake should come out clean.

Turn the cake out on a wire rack. Warm 2 tablespoons honey in a small pan and brush over the top of the cake to give a sticky glaze, then leave to cool. Keeps for 4-5 days wrapped, in an airtight tin.

Cooking with Wine & Spirits

Tags

baking, Chefs & Cooks, Clifton Kitchen, Cook Books, Cooking thorugh the seasons, Desserts, food and drink, Food Blogs, Lifestyle, liqueurs, Photography, raisins, recipes, Ricotta, Travel, wine

Article first published in SHOWCOOK http://www.showcook.com/2012/in-the-news/cooking-with-wine-spirits-kate-abbott/

There are many wines, domestic and imported, which are both a pleasure to drink and reasonably priced for cooking. The wine used for cooking may be either white or red and for savoury food should be dry rather than sweet. There are in my opinion only a few instances when a touch of sweetness is not out of place in meat cookery, for example the Madeira sauce served with ham and tongue.

If you are not sure how to buy wine and spirits for cooking, the best step would be to find a good, trustworthy wine merchant. Beware of bargains in wine, and never use wine in cooking that you would not drink. Of course this does not mean marinating a shoulder of venison in a precious expensive vintage Burgundy which deserves rather to be enjoyed in a glass, where it can be fully appreciated.

Wine is added to foods to enhance natural flavour. Colour too is a factor. White wine is usual for fish and poultry dishes. Red wine will add dark colour to meat, gravy, or to coq au vin. When wine is cooked the alcohol evaporates, leaving only the flavour of the fruit, and provides subtleties and nuances of flavour, aroma and bouquet to a dish. However moderation is important in order not to overwhelm the food. It is best not to use more wine than specified in a recipe on the assumption that if a little wine is good, more will be better. Too much wine can spoil a dish irreparably.

Other than its use in dessert, wine has three major uses in cooking. First, it is used with herbs and spices as a marinade, to season and to tenderize meat before braising or long slow cooking. The marinade is used in the cooking as well and becomes part of the sauce. When cooking fish, wine often forms part of the liquid for poaching, and also becomes part of the sauce. In both cases the wine is subjected to considerable cooking and thus reduced. In this instance it need not be of the highest quality, although it should still be good enough to drink.

The second use of wine in cooking is to make pan sauces. In this instance the wine is used to deglaze the pan in which meat, fish or poultry was roasted or sautéed, to dissolve the tasty bits that cling to the pan, and incorporate any juices. The pan should be very hot when the wine is added as this hastens the deglazing and the evaporation of the alcohol. The sauce is then reduced and poured over the food. The quick cooking approach of deglazing does not cause the wine to lose its bouquet which is why when deglazing it is preferable to select a wine of a slightly better quality than what you would use for marinades.

The third use of wine in cooking is as a final flavouring agent, in which case it is added at the very end of the cooking process, or just before serving. The sauce is not brought to the boil after the wine is added. Wines for this purpose are usually fortified, that is, strengthened with brandy such as Sherry, Madeira, or Port. When used in this fashion they provide excellent flavour to the dish.

The remainder of a bottle of wine used in cooking can be served with the meal, or the bottle can be tightly corked and laid on its side in the refrigerator until it is needed again for cooking, but should be used within a few days as wine tends to turn to vinegar rather quickly once exposed to air. Should this happen do not worry, the ‘turned’ wine need not go to waist, instead use it for making salad dressings.

When using wine and spirits in cooking, certain ones are indispensable; it would be good to have these on hand. You will need two kinds of wine, reds for cooking dark meats and game and white wine for fish and poultry dishes. Both kinds should be dry wines. For flaming you should have Cognac or another brandy. A Sherry and Madeira of excellent quality are useful for flavouring everything from soups to desserts. Good options to have on hand for desserts are dark rum, kirsch, and one of the liqueurs, such as Grand Marnier, Cointreau or Curaçao.

Wines are less important than liqueurs in flavouring desserts because the small amounts that can be added as flavouring would have little effect compared with the intensity of flavour that can be derived from an equal amount of rum, brandy, or a liqueur. The simplest way to of using liqueurs to flavour desserts is to add them to puddings, sauces, or whipped cream, or sprinkle over fresh or cooked fruit or over ice cream or sorbets.

Too much liqueur added to an ice cream or ice mixture will prevent it from freezing; too much liqueur added to anything can make a dish taste of nothing but liqueur. Use liqueurs in cooking as you do wine, discreetly.

The French and the Italians are skilled users of wine and spirits in many of their dishes, from the simplest to the most elaborate, often combining the flavouring agents of wine or spirits together with citrus peel, citrus juice and fragrant flower waters.

This typical Mediterranean Ricotta cake is airy, soft, and at the same time a little moist. Grand Marnier, orange flower water, and citrus zest intensify and perfume the cake with gorgeous flavour. It can be served as is, or with soft fruits, or with a dash of yoghurt flavoured with citrus juice, and or flower water and a little icing sugar to taste.

Sicilian Ricotta cake

Serves 6-8

Ingredients

1 tablespoon castor sugar for dusting the baking pan

1 tablespoon orange juice

1 table spoon Grand Marnier

1 tablespoon orange- flower water

55g seedless raisins

75 g unsalted butter

130 g caster sugar

2 large eggs

Orange zest from 1 orange

Lemon zest from I lemon

3 tablespoons flour

1 ½ tsp. baking powder

Pinch of salt

450 g Ricotta, drained and lightly mashed using a fork

Icing sugar for dusting

Method

Preheat the oven to 180C

Lightly butter a 20cm spring form tin and dust bottom and sides with some castor sugar, discarding any excess.

Place the orange juice, Grand Marnier, and flower water in a small pan and heat to just warm. Add the raisins and leave to soak soften and absorb the liquid.

In a bowl cream the butter and sugar until well combined. Add the eggs and whisk till combined. Add the zest, flour, baking powder and salt and whisk to combine. Add the ricotta and whisk to incorporate. Fold in the raisins and their soaking liquid.

Scrape the mixture into the prepared baking pan and place in the middle of the oven, bake for about 60 minutes. Test for doneness after about 55 minutes by inserting a skewer in the middle of the cake. It is ready when the skewer comes out clean. Leave to cool on a wire rack.

Turn out onto a plate. At this point the cake may be dusted lightly with some icing sugar.

Tip: if the cake starts to brown too quickly, cover loosely with some aluminium foil for the rest of the baking period

Options: the raisins may be replaced with peeled and finely chopped apple or pear, cinnamon.

Potato Bread Rolls ~ I just love the smell of bread baking

Tags

Bread, Bread Rolls, Chefs, Cook Books, Cooks, Food Blogs, Food Writing, Life, Photography, Portuguese, Potato Bread, recipe, Travel, Yeast

There are too many potatoes in the larder so I am using some to make potato bread rolls. I usually use this recipe to make bread loaves but today I am in the mood for making bread rolls instead, some of the rolls will go to a friend who I am expecting to arrive later today.

The recipe is Portuguese in origin, just one of the many cultural influences in our cuisine.

Potato Bread Rolls

Makes 24 rolls

Ingredients

500 g cooked mashed potatoes

900 ml lukewarm water

1.5 kg plain flour

20 ml salt

15 g instant yeast

Method

Preheat the oven to 220C and grease two baking sheets.

Start by blending together the mashed potato and warm water until smooth.

Place the flour salt and yeast in a bowl, make a well in the centre and add the blended potato mixture and work it into the dry ingredients until everything comes together, then turn the dough out onto a well floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic.

Place the dough in a bowl, cover and leave to rise in a warm place until double in size. Knock the dough back and divide into four equal portions, then pinch off pieces of dough roughly equal in size and form into plump sausage shapes. Arrange on baking sheets, leaving enough room for the rolls to rise during baking.

Leave to rise again until nicely plumped up, dust with flour, pop into the oven and bake for 15 minutes at 220C then reduce oven temperature to 180 C and continue to bake for about 10 to 15 minutes. He rolls should have a hollow sound when tapped on the bottom.